There are dishes in the world of omakase that announce themselves loudly with extravagant garnishes or elaborate tableside theatrics, and then there are dishes that whisper. These are the creations built on precision, restraint, and a deep understanding of Japanese culinary philosophy. It is a dish that speaks softly and carries the full weight of craftsmanship behind it.
He calls it Shiso Smoked Hirame with Warm Saké Cream, and while it sounds deceptively simple, it represents one of the most quietly daring dishes he has developed in recent years. The restraint itself is the innovation. Every choice he makes in this recipe shapes an experience that is delicate, atmospheric, and deeply tied to the DNA of Japanese dining at its most refined.
I had the privilege of spending several days in his kitchen while he developed this dish from a loose concept into something worthy of his menu. What follows is both a profile of the dish and a window into the thinking that drives the omakase world forward.
The Philosophy Behind the Dish
To understand this creation, you must first understand the foundation of omakase. At its heart lies trust. Trust in ingredients. Trust in the chef. Trust in the connection between simplicity and depth. Traditional Japanese dining emphasizes purity of flavor. The goal is never to overwhelm the palate but rather to elevate the natural expression of each component.
Chef Masa’s inspiration began with a single ingredient: hirame, or flounder, a fish prized in winter months when its flesh becomes firmer and sweeter. Hirame is often served in its raw form at high end sushi counters, sliced so thin that light passes through the edges. It demands precision because the margin for error is razor thin. Mishandling even one step can dull its character.
But Chef Masa did not want to replicate the established hirame traditions. He wanted to take its quiet nature and amplify it in a direction diners were not expecting.
He explained that he envisioned a dish that preserved the fish’s purity while introducing an aromatic lift. That spark of inspiration became the guiding principle behind the entire experiment. His chosen vehicle was smoke. Not the heavy smoke of hardwoods that dominate Western preparations. Instead, he chose the ephemeral smoke created from dried oba shiso leaves. These leaves burn quickly and produce a brief burst of fragrance that disappears just as swiftly. It was the culinary equivalent of a passing breeze.
The Development Process
Most experimental dishes begin with a bold idea. This one began with a whisper. I watched as Chef Masa dried shiso leaves himself, arranging them on bamboo trays and letting them sit in a warm corner of the kitchen until crisp. He then tested how the leaves burned over different intensities of heat to see how long the aroma would last.
The next challenge was heat control. The hirame needed to be kissed lightly by the fragrance so that the smoke became a note rather than the melody. The goal was not to cook the fish but to let its surface absorb the shiso aroma.
Once he achieved the perfect balance, he turned toward the element that would serve as the dish’s foundation: a warm saké cream infused with kombu. This was the most daring part of the creation because warm cream sauces are almost nonexistent in traditional Japanese cuisine. Cream can easily overpower delicate fish, yet he approached it not as a European technique but as an extension of dashi philosophy.
His saké cream was built slowly, almost meditatively. He warmed junmai saké and whisked it gently into a reduction of kombu and a small amount of fresh cream, no more than necessary to achieve a velvety texture. The idea was not to coat the fish but to create a pool that lifted the natural umami of the hirame and echoed the softness of the smoke.
During testing, some iterations were too muted and others too bold. Finding the midpoint, where the saké and kombu worked in harmony, took several days. When he finally achieved what he envisioned, everyone in the kitchen felt it. The air shifted. Even the staff fell silent for a moment when the final version was tasted.
The Final Dish
A finished plate of Shiso Smoked Hirame with Warm Saké Cream is a portrait of understatement.
The hirame arrives sliced into long, translucent pieces, arranged in a gentle curve as if following the natural line of the fish. Each slice is treated with the briefest moment of shiso smoke, giving it a barely perceptible floral aroma that rises only when the dish approaches the diner.
Beneath the fish rests a shallow pool of the warm saké cream. Its color is pale, almost ivory, with flecks of finely grated yuzu zest that introduce a subtle sharpness to balance the richness. At first glance, the dish appears minimalistic, but close observers will notice the precision of every detail.
Before serving, Chef Masa applies a touch of sea salt made from seawater he reduces in house. He also adds a single fresh shiso blossom to punctuate the aroma. Nothing is added without intention. Every component exists to reveal a deeper layer of the main ingredient.
Why This Dish Matters
Innovation in Japanese dining rarely arrives through dramatic reinvention. Instead, it comes from incremental shifts that reveal new perspectives on familiar elements. This dish represents one such shift.
1. A New Expression of Smoke in Omakase
While smoked elements exist in Japanese cuisine, they seldom appear in omakase settings due to their tendency to overwhelm delicate fish. Using dried shiso leaves creates a different category of smoke. It is herbaceous and short lived, more perfume than fire. The technique adds dimension without compromising the essence of the fish.
2. A Calculated Use of Cream
The use of cream in Japanese fine dining must be handled with restraint. Too much and the dish feels Western. Too little and it serves no purpose. The saké cream bridges the gap between traditional dashi making and modern experimentation. It demonstrates that even ingredients outside the Japanese canon can be integrated thoughtfully when guided by the principles of balance and harmony.
3. A Return to Seasonality
Although the dish is experimental, it honors a central pillar of Japanese cuisine: seasonality. Winter is the height of hirame season. The fish is at its prime. Chef Masa builds every component around the need to highlight the fish when it is naturally at its best.
The Texture Journey
Experiencing this dish is less about bold flavors and more about the interplay of textures.
The hirame is firm yet slightly supple. It yields gently to the teeth, offering a clean snap without the chewiness found in lesser cuts. The warm saké cream contrasts this with its silky texture. When the two meet, the cream warms the surface of the fish, awakening its natural sweetness.
The shiso smoke acts like a finishing note. It does not linger heavily. Instead, it appears briefly before fading, creating a sensory moment that feels almost transient. This fleeting quality is what makes the dish so memorable. It engages the senses but never overwhelms them.
When I asked him why he chose to document this dish in the Experiments and Innovations section, he explained that innovation is not just the creation of something new. It is the expression of curiosity and possibility.
He believes that experimentation should always respect the foundation of Japanese dining. It is not enough to create something unusual. The dish must still reflect restraint, humility, and the spirit of omakase. This philosophy guided every step of the development.
He described the dish as “a quiet experiment.” He wanted to explore aroma without intrusion, warmth without heaviness, and innovation without abandoning tradition. That balance is rare, even among experienced chefs.
Recreating the Dish at Home
While certain elements of this dish are exclusive to high level omakase kitchens, home cooks can still attempt a simplified version. I asked Chef Masa what he would recommend for those who wish to explore the concept in a domestic setting.
Key Tips for Home Cooks
1. Choose the freshest white fish possible.
If hirame is unavailable, you may use snapper or halibut. The quality must be exceptional.
2. Do not overheat the saké cream.
If it reaches a full simmer, it will taste harsh. Gentle heat is essential.
3. Use fresh shiso leaves.
If you cannot dry your own, lightly torching a fresh leaf near the fish can mimic the aromatic effect.
4. Keep seasoning minimal.
Salt should be applied sparingly. Let the natural flavor of the fish guide the dish.
The Broader Impact on Japanese Dining
Chef Masa’s approach reflects a larger movement within modern Japanese cuisine. Younger and middle generation chefs are exploring ways to expand tradition without disrupting it. They view innovation not as rebellion but as evolution.
This dish is emblematic of that shift. It does not challenge the foundations of omakase. Rather, it deepens them by exploring an underutilized technique and marrying it with classic sensibilities.
Within the broader culinary landscape of Singapore, where Japanese dining is flourishing, this dish adds another voice to the conversation. It demonstrates that progress in omakase does not require dramatic reinvention. It requires thoughtful exploration.
Final Thoughts
The Shiso Smoked Hirame with Warm Saké Cream stands as one of Chef Masa’s most elegant experiments. It is a dish that rewards attention and invites contemplation. Nothing is loud. Nothing is forced. It reflects the idea that true innovation in Japanese dining is often gentle.
For those who appreciate the art of omakase, this creation offers a deeper understanding of how tradition and experimentation can coexist. It also provides rare insight into the mind of a chef who continually pushes the boundaries of flavor and technique without ever abandoning the soul of the cuisine.
It is a dish that honors the past while quietly guiding diners into the future.
For readers interested in further exploring Chef Masa’s philosophy of quiet innovation, two additional pieces offer complementary perspectives: The Umami Paradox: Chef Masa’s Smoked Ankimo & Persimmon Mosaic. An examination of contrast and restraint, where richness and sweetness are carefully balanced to reveal umami in unexpected ways. Shirasu and Uni Cold Somen: A Quiet Ceremony in Bowl Form. A meditation on simplicity and seasonality, capturing how minimalism can become a profound dining experience when guided by intention. Together, these dishes—like the Shiso Smoked Hirame—illustrate how Chef Masa continues to evolve Japanese cuisine through subtlety rather than spectacle.
