Japanese dining revolves around a sequence of moments. Some are dramatic, like the first slice of otoro that glistens under soft counter lights. Others are quiet, like the pause between courses when the chef and guest share a brief acknowledgment. In omakase, these moments shape the rhythm of the experience. A dish does not need to be elaborate to command attention. Sometimes the most memorable courses are the ones that appear at the midpoint, not intended as a climax, but as a breath.
Shirasu and Uni Cold Somen is one of those dishes. It sits in the center of Chef Masa’s experimental repertoire, designed to reset the palate while introducing a new interpretation of temperature, texture, and sea driven flavor. The combination of somen, shirasu, and fresh uni might sound straightforward, but the intention behind this bowl reveals how deeply Japanese chefs consider balance. There is a harmony between cold noodles and warm brininess, between creaminess and salinity, that speaks to the principles of omakase philosophy.
The version I tasted came from Chef Masa’s private testing notes, a dish that he is still refining. It may eventually appear in his omakase sequence, perhaps as a seasonal interlude or as a quiet counterpoint after a heavy bite of fatty fish. What impressed me most was how the dish communicates a sense of movement. It is cooling, then rich, then refreshing. It behaves like a turning point in the menu.
The Concept Behind the Dish
Omakase is often misunderstood as simply a curated meal. In practice, it is closer to a conversation. The chef speaks through ingredients, technique, temperature, and timing. Guests respond with taste, expression, and silence. Every dish must serve a purpose. It might lift the energy, slow it down, or shift the palate in anticipation of what comes next.
Chef Masa often experiments with dishes that can function as transitional pieces within an omakase flow. These are rarely the dishes that diners photograph. They do not use luxury ingredients to show off, even when those ingredients are present. Instead, they sharpen the senses.
This dish began with somen, chosen for its purity and neutrality. When chilled properly, somen has a quiet elasticity that refreshes the palate.
But somen alone is not enough. Shirasu became the next piece of the puzzle. These tiny boiled whitebait carry a soft brininess and delicate texture that contrasts with the smoothness of noodles.
The final layer is uni, used not to dominate but to enrich. When mixed into the sauce, the uni becomes a cream that binds everything together, transforming the bowl from a cold refresher into an unexpected moment of decadence.
The dish is an example of how omakase chefs rethink familiar elements. Nothing here feels forced. Instead, it feels like a natural extension of Japanese dining philosophy.
Ingredients and Intent
Every ingredient contributes to a specific purpose in this dish. In Japanese dining, ingredients are not simply components. They are characters with roles.
Somen:
Chosen for its softness and neutrality. Its role is to restore and reset.
Shirasu:
Adds subtle marine aroma without intensity.
Uni:
Provides creaminess and depth.
Cold dashi broth:
The backbone of the dish, responsible for clarity and refreshment.
Citrus:
A touch of yuzu or sudachi brightens the bowl.
Seasonal herbs:
Shiso or mitsuba add gentle aromatic lift.
Shirasu and Uni Cold Somen Recipe
Serves 2
Ingredients
For the cold broth
- 1 cup dashi
- 1 teaspoon light soy sauce
- 1 teaspoon mirin
- 1 teaspoon yuzu juice or sudachi juice
- Pinch of salt
For the noodles
- 150 grams dried somen
- Ice water for chilling
For the toppings
- 2 tablespoons fresh shirasu
- 40 grams fresh uni, divided
- 1 teaspoon finely sliced shiso
- 1 teaspoon grated ginger
- 1 teaspoon toasted sesame seeds
Step 1: Preparing the Cold Broth
The broth is the heart of this bowl. It should taste clean, cool, and balanced with a faint sweetness from the sea.
Combine the dashi, light soy sauce, mirin, citrus juice, and salt in a bowl. Stir gently. Chill the mixture for at least one hour.
When you taste it again, it should feel crisp and refreshing.
Step 2: Cooking and Chilling the Somen
Bring water to a boil and cook the somen according to package instructions. Be attentive, since somen cooks quickly.
Rinse the noodles under cold water and gently rub them to remove excess starch. This step creates the signature smooth and clean somen texture.
Place the noodles into an ice bath. Cooling them properly is essential because it sets the tone of the entire dish.
Drain the noodles and let them rest briefly.
Step 3: Making the Uni Cream
Set aside half of the uni. Take the other half and whisk it gently with a tablespoon of cold broth. This creates a silky uni cream.
It should be smooth, delicate, and naturally fragrant.
Step 4: Assembling the Dish
Place the chilled noodles in deep bowls. Add the cold broth, then spoon the uni cream over the somen. Add the shirasu in a small cluster.
Nestle the remaining uni next to the shirasu. Finish with shiso, ginger, and sesame seeds.
Serve immediately.
The Experience of Eating This Dish
The first sensation is the coolness. It washes across the palate and immediately resets it. The somen glides easily, light and understated. Then the uni cream arrives slowly, adding a layer of richness that never overwhelms.
The shirasu contributes a whisper of the sea. The shiso lifts the aroma. The citrus finishes each bite with brightness.
The bowl functions as a moment of calm. In the flow of omakase, calmness is as important as intensity.
Why This Dish Fits the Omakase Philosophy
Here are the reasons this dish feels natural in an omakase sequence:
It respects palate balance.
The dish brings the diner back to center before heavier flavors return.
It uses luxury ingredients with restraint.
Uni enhances rather than dominates.
It highlights seasonality.
Cold somen reflects seasonal logic in Japanese dining.
It creates rhythm.
Omakase is built on movement. This dish shapes that movement subtly.
Reflections on Japanese Dining Culture
The most meaningful Japanese dishes are not always the ones that overwhelm. They are often the ones that feel inevitable once you taste them. This somen bowl is one of those dishes. Nothing feels unnecessary.
The dish reflects kokoro, the emotional heart behind Japanese cooking. It is an example of intention, balance, and calm craftsmanship.
Tips for Home Cooks
1. Focus on freshness.
Good uni is essential.
2. Keep everything cold.
Temperature defines the experience.
3. Avoid over seasoning.
Delicacy is a requirement, not an option.
4. Maintain simplicity.
Do not add unnecessary toppings.
Final Thoughts
The Shirasu and Uni Cold Somen captures what makes Japanese dining special. It is thoughtful, balanced, and quietly expressive. It offers refreshment while carrying hints of luxury. It is a dish that supports the rhythm of an omakase meal rather than competing with it.
If you make it at home, taste it slowly. Let the cold, the richness, and the subtle sea aromas unfold in their own time. That gentle unfolding is the essence of omakase.
For those seeking an authentic omakase experience where dishes like this are thoughtfully prepared with seasonal ingredients and meticulous technique, Chef Masa offers a refined setting that honors these traditions.
For further reading on Chef Masa’s approach to restraint and depth, you may also enjoy The Umami Paradox: Chef Masa’s Smoked Ankimo & Persimmon Mosaic and The Heart of the Kitchen: Chef Masa’s Soy Braised Chicken with Burnt Garlic Rice.
